RAZZBERY ICE CREAM PARLOUR

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When Kitty Travers sells her homemade ice cream at Spa Terminus, a hub of food producers in south London which opens to the public on Saturdays, she likes to imagine she’s creating more than something delicious. “Ice cream has a great nostalgia factor to it,” she says. “For me, it’s connected with memories of going abroad when I was younger, to France and Italy, but everybody has their own. That’s my ambition: it would be lovely to create memories for someone else.” Travers started La Grotta Ices in 2009, after four years as a pastry chef at St John Bread and Wine, and has been pushing the boundaries of ice-cream making ever since, whipping up treats from cucumbers and pea pods to candied kumquats. For OFM, though, she has perfected a classic flavour. What’s good about making your own raspberry ripple ice cream, she says, is that “you’re in control of how much raspberry you add. I use one-third raspberry puree and two-thirds ice cream. It’s really tasty.”

You don’t need fancy equipment to make it at home, just a bowl, a thermometer and a whisk, although, she says: “Ice-cream makers are inexpensive now – £20 will get you a good one. It’s also worth investing in a good stainless steel pan with a thick bottom and a heart-shaped spring form whisk, which gets into the corners of the pan to prevent the milk and eggs from overcooking.”

What is it about ice cream, I wonder, that makes her want to master it? “It’s a magic food,” she says. “We love eating it because it’s fun: the way it melts in your mouth, the way it doesn’t make you full. I’m always trying to make something that’s as perfect as a ripe peach using only natural ingredients. It’s a challenge, but if you get it right it makes people really happy.”

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